August 2006


If you take all the products in the supermarket and sum their collective weight, 25% of that weight is derived from corn. At least, that’s the statistic reported by Michael Pollan in The Omnivore’s Dilemma. Not hard to believe when you look at the ingredients list of all the processed foods.

  • Your sodas are corn.
  • Your cereals are corn.
  • Your pancake syrup is corn.
  • Your oatmeal is corn.
  • Your yogurt is corn.
  • Your beef is corn.

…and so on, ad nauseum.

Everyone knows the saying, “You are what you eat.” So by this logic, people these days are largely derived from corn. But is that so bad? I mean, isn’t corn healthy? We have in our mind endless cornfields in the Midwest growing on rich, black soils, but that’s not the modern situation.

The lifecycle of corn these days begins in an oil field. Petroleum is refined to create synthetic fertilizers that provide just enough nutrient content (NPK) to make damaged topsoils viable for growth. Farmers can skip crop rotation knowing that synthetic fertilizers will make the land produce corn for yet another year. The cost of this process is damage to the soil itself, toxic fertilizers draining into the waterways, and low nutrient content in the food itself.

Of course, describing this type of genetically modified corn food is a bit of a misnomer. Most of the “grain” corn grown in mass quantities is actually unfit for human consumption without additional processing. It is used in:

This is the world our government and industrial farming practices have created with cheap corn. If you’re not angry, you’re not paying attention.

Suppose you avoid all the processed foods in the supermarket and begin to feel good about yourself. Maybe you buy extra produce and imagine that you’re getting a quality product. Labeling produce “conventional” is an interesting euphemism to describe produce grown with synthetic, petroleum derived fertilizers and pesticides in nutrient-starved soil. It might be more appropriate to name it “chemical” produce.

Organic food, by comparison, is portrayed as the saintly opposite of the convential produce. These foods are a big improvement because pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are not used, but are still not ideal. Industrial distribution processes dictate that even organic foods are delivered from places like New Zealand, California, and even Argentina. The nutritional and taste qualities of perishables generally do not benefit from being hauled halfway around the globe.

What’s the answer to all this madness? How do people obtain sane foods that won’t hurt their families, the environment, and farmers? The answer is simply to go local. Reduce the length of your food chain to the point where you know exactly where the food came from. Buy from local farmer’s markets, CSAs, or even grow it in your own garden. Ask the farmers about their growing practices. Enjoy seeing and eating foods that celebrate real biodiversity. The food you can get locally is literally not the same thing you can get through industrial food chains.

Opt out of the industrial system. It sucks for you and your family.

This post is about a month late in the coming, but I had to give it a brief write up to pay appropriate homage to both Intelligentsia Coffee and Hacienda La Esmerelda.

The Millenium Park Intelligentsia store maintains a short list of coffees you can order for brewing on the Clover. I love the Clover as an alternative to espresso shots because it emphasizes the more subtle flavors of the beans that are usually lost in a drip or french press brew without sacrificing the body. Anyway, Intelly typically has a small menu listing 5 to 6 coffees you can order on the Clover at a given time that cost $2-3 for a 12 oz. cup.
I walked in one day and coffee listed on the Clover menu with a price tag in excess of $10. The baristas confirmed that it was indeed the Esmerelda Special from La Hacienda Esmerelda that won at the 2006 Best of Panama auction. It’s not every day you can drop $10 on 12 oz of liquid and not be purchasing wine, but on the other hand, a $10 wine is nothing to write home about. Coffee prices, on the other hand, haven’t ballooned the way wine prices have. Call me crazy, but being able to taste what is literally the best coffee Panama has to offer for such a low price is a deal.

So I ordered up my unusually high priced coffee, which was served with a great degree of care and awe. (It’s likely there weren’t too many consumers there buying this stuff.) The taste was really excellent, as was the mouthfeel. Any description of the taste profile that I could give would fall short, but the overall sensation imparted was one of perfect balance. Sipping that stuff suffused my spirit with a sense of warmth and joy.

I like to think that I have a decent palate, but drinking Panama’s finest was an experience that had me out of my depth. I could tell that the coffee was exemplary, but my tasting skills were probably not equipped to identify the winner from any of the close runners up. That type of fine differentiation is best left to more qualified judges. Suffice it to say, I really enjoyed the cup and even dragged my buddies in to try it themselves, but it also made me appreciate the taste buds of the experts.